Burdock (Arctium lappa), dry extract titrated to 2% in inulin
This biennial herbaceous plant of the Asteraceae (Compositae) family has been known for centuries for the therapeutic effects of its active ingredients, which are considered extremely useful, in particular in combating skin diseases. The root is rich in inulin, a prebiotic substance which works synergistically with other substances (polyenes, alcohols, sterols…) to provide the acknowledged bacteriostatic and antifungal characteristics of this plant. In addition, it is traditionally known as a hair strengthener, and is active in maintaining a healthy scalp, because of its action in regulating sebum overproduction and antibacterial properties. It has blood glucose lowering effects and is therefore useful in countering insulin resistance and inflammation which can lead to developing diabetes. In addition, it is considered a plant with remarkable cleansing action and liver protective action. Thanks to its healthy actions on the skin and its appendages, it is also widely used in topical preparations such as creams, lotions, shampoos, conditioners and similar preparations with mainly sebum-regulating, antibacterial and antifungal functions.
Beta-Sitosterol
Beta-sitosterol is one of several phytosterols (plant sterols) with chemical structures similar to that of cholesterol, and is quite widespread among plant species; in particular it is found in some plants used to regulate sex steroids such as Saw palmetto (Serenoa repens), Pygeum africanum (African plum), which are the most popular herbal remedies to counter benign prostatic hyperplasia, male pattern baldness, excess sebum, seborrheic dermatitis, and hirsutism. Beta-sitosterol is the basis, along with other plant sterols, for food, supplements and pharmaceutical preparations aimed at reducing excess cholesterol, one reason being that it inhibits the absorption of cholesterol from the intestine, replacing it and taking its place in cell membranes. This combined with the Saw palmetto extract was found to be active against male pattern baldness in a well-known US study dating from 2002 (see link below). This type of action is due to the structure of the molecule of beta-sitosterol, which makes it similar to a replaced progestogen-17 and to a weak estrogen (and thus with anti-estrogenic function). It is also considered to be able to bind both the enzyme 5-alpha reductase (both types) and the androgen receptor, thereby preventing testosterone from converting to more harmful DHT (dihydrotestosterone), which is responsible for increased seborrhoea and acne (and male pattern baldness as well), and making it more difficult, however, to bind the same androgen and its receptor. Based on these properties, it is also used in the treatment of prostate cancer and breast cancer.
Green Tea (Camelia sinensis), dry extract titrated to 98% in polyphenols and 40% in EGCG
Green tea is known for its anti-ageing properties (most notably for its antioxidant action), and also exerts anticancer activity. In particular, these effects are produced by polyphenols in general and catechins in particular. These include EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate). The same substances are active in inhibiting the enzyme 5-alpha reductase (mainly type I), which is most responsible for sebum overproduction, and thus for the underlying skin and hair diseases, as it converts testosterone to more harmful DHT (dihydrotestosterone). Indeed, this type of isoenzyme is plentifully available in sebaceous glands, and has been found to be one of the main causes of acne. Green tea acts on this process by increasing SHBG (sex-hormone binding globuline), which prevents testosterone from converting to DHT.
In addition, EGCG decreases the excess of cyclooxygenase (COX-2) which is implicated in cancers, such as prostate cancer, and affects the expression of PSA (or prostate-specific antigen), which is involved in several cancerous processes, including metastasis. It regulates the genes involved in lipid oxidation and in the creation of adipose tissue, lowering insulin resistance and blood glucose, and thus proving to be effective in the prevention of diabetes and obesity. It protects the cardiovascular system by acting as an antioxidant and antithrombotic, and lowering cholesterol levels.
The other catechins and polyphenols perform similar actions and synergistically strengthen EGCG activity, so it is advisable to use an extract rich in EGCG, but containing the other useful components of this plant, which has a number of beneficial effects on the body.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale), dry extract titrated to 2% in inulin
This plant, which is also of the Asteraceae family (also known as “dandelion”, from French dent-de-lion, meaning “lion’s tooth”) is known for its purifying, digestive and anti-inflammatory action. The dandelion root contains several active ingredients that work synergistically. These include – besides inulin, in which the extract is titrated – triterpenes alcohols, taraxerol, taraxasterol, beta-taraxasterol, beta-sitosterol sterols, stigmasterol, cluithianol, vitamins A, C, D, thiamine, nicotinic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, levulose, caffeic acid, flavonoids, bitter principles, taraxacin, triterpenes, pentacyclics, sterols, carotenes, xanthophylls, apigenin 7-glucoside. These active ingredients exert a potent purifying and drainage action and help eliminate toxins from the body through the natural excretory mechanism, such as the liver, kidneys, intestines and skin, regulating sebum secretion. The dandelion is also used in weight loss diets and is indicated for benign prostatic hypertrophy.
Calendula (Calendula officinalis), dry extract titrated to 5% in lutein
Calendula is also a plant of the Asteraceae family (like burdock and dandelion). In particular, its flower is used. It is known to be anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiparasitic, healing, hypotensive, a peripheral vasodilator, antispasmodic, emmenagogue (stimulates menstruation), choleretic (stimulates bile secretion), antifungal, and antiviral. The main active ingredients are triterpene glycosides, saponosides, triterpenes alcohols (with anti-inflammatory action), sterols, carotenoids, carotenes, xanthophylls, flavonoids, coumarins, monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes (with antimicrobial action), polysaccharides (for immunostimulating action). It also contains allantoin, vitamin C, mucilage, gums, bitter substances, resins, phenols, pyrogallic tannins and large amounts of manganese and lutein as well as calendulin, lycopene, malic acid, cholesterol esters of fatty acids – lauric, myristic, palmitic, margaric acids –, organic acids like salicylic acid and also collagen.
Calendula can be used internally against Gram-positive bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus, beta-haemolytic streptococcus, also has hypotensive and vasodilatory action, and lowers blood cholesterol and triglycerides. In addition, it protects the stomach lining, helps soothe gastric ulcer, gastritis and colitis. It also has anti-inflammatory activity, stimulates circulation and promotes perspiration, to help eliminate toxins from the body and soften skin rash.
It also encourages tissue regeneration and is therefore recommended after surgical and dental procedures. Lutein, a carotenoid, in which the extract is titrated, is an active ingredient known for its antioxidant action, has been shown to protect the organs of sight against degeneration, and helps maintain the elasticity, lipid levels and hydration of the epidermis.
Fumaria (Fumaria officinalis), dry extract 150 mg, titrated to 0.04% in protopine
This is a herbaceous plant of the Fumaraceae (Papaveraceae) family, so called because if you bring it to your face, it will make your eyes tear as smoke does. Traditionally, it is considered a plant that prolongs life, which in modern herbal medicine results in various beneficial actions working against inflammation of various types as well as hypertension, atherosclerosis and migraine headaches. It is rich in active ingredients such as berberine and proptopine (isoquinoline alkaloids) as well as in adlumidiceine, coptisine, corytuberine, cryptopine, fumaricine, fumaritine, fumarophycine, O-methylfumarophycine, palmatine, sinactine, stylopine, N-methylstylopine, fumarin, fumaric acid, flavonoids, hydrastine, captisine, amino acids, cerylic acid, and various flavonoids. In dermatology, it is used for acne and dermatoses in general, particularly psoriasis. It also has hepatoprotective, antispasmodic and analgesic effects. Protopine, in which the extract is titrated, acts as both an antispasmodic and a mild sedative for the central nervous system, and can be helpful in reducing the nervous component of both sebum overproduction and acne.
Pollen Extract
The pollen extract has long been known for its actions on the urogenital system, in particular against benign prostatic hypertrophy. It seems to act differently on smooth muscle contraction, as an anti-inflammatory agent and as a 5-alpha-reductase enzyme inhibitor. Such inhibiting effect has proved useful in targeting skin problems, such as sebum overproduction, acne, dermatitis and similar diseases involving, for example, androgen metabolism, and, in particular, DHT. In this respect, stress should be laid on the anti-inflammatory action of the pollen extract, which seems to be effective against other problems as well, including colds and flu as well as allergic colds, asthma and allergies, for skin and hair wellness (and even against radiation effects), as well as in treating female problems relating to menstruation and menopause, enhancing vigour, and producing a tonic action – for example, in the elderly (see the monograph posted below).
Black Pepper (Piper nigrum), dry extract titrated to 95% in piperine
This extract titrated in piperine is obtained from black pepper, which is used in a variety of products to treat fevers, digestive disorders, urinary difficulties, rheumatism, neuralgia and tremor. Piperine increases the absorption rate of many substances, including vitamins, minerals, amino acids and antioxidants, making the various active ingredients even more effective. Recently it was discovered that piperine could inhibit 5-alpha reductase, the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone to DHT (which causes seborrhoea, male pattern baldness, acne, hirsutism and other androgen-dependent diseases).
Biotin (Vitamin H or B7-8)
Initially known as vitamin H or I, and later identified as vitamin B7 in the Anglo-Saxon nomenclature, and B8 (biotin) in the French nomenclature respectively, biotin takes part in all the processes that involve carbon dioxide fixation, and thus in all decarboxylation reactions, including the transformation of pyruvic acid into oxaloacetic acid, which is key to the Krebs cycle, and of acetyl-CoA, which is essential for fatty acid biosynthesis in cytoplasm and the metabolization of fatty acids with an odd number of carbon atoms. Hence it stimulates glycogen production, thereby improving the trophism of skin and its appendages. It is widely known to help control sebum overproduction.
Bardana e capelli
La bardana è sempre stata utilizzata per la cura dei capelli, soprattutto per le sue attività antiseborroiche e antinfiammatorie. Ora uno studio ha evidenziato l’attività di uno dei principali attivi di questa pianta, ossia l’arctina. Quest’ultima si è rivelata antiossidante e in grado di attivare la proteina-chinasi MAPK e il percorso Wnt che stanno alla base della generazione dei capelli.
Biotina
Diffusa in tutti gli alimenti, è assai abbondante nel fegato, nelle uova, nel lievito, nella crusca, nel riso. La biotina è essenziale per la sintesi degli acidi grassi in quanto, come gruppo prostetico, rappresenta la componente funzionale dell’acetil-CoA-carbossilasi, enzima chiave nei processi lipogenetici.
Forfora, dermatite seborroica e capelli grassi
Il sebo è fondamentale per la nostra cute: protegge il cuoio capelluto sia da aggressioni di tipo irritativo sia dagli agenti batterici. Le ghiandole sebacee, a livello del cuoio capelluto, raggiungono anche una densità di 900 per cm quadrato. Tuttavia, l’alterazione nella composizione dei componenti del sebo può portare a seborrea, forfora grassa e nei casi più gravi alla dermatite seborroica.
